This
last weekend I was in Tambacounda, only about two hours north east of me, for
the annual Marathon for Girls Education. This was the second time that the
marathon was held and I would consider it to be a huge success. There is a small
entry fee, 1000 CFA that is the equivalent to about $2, and money earned both
in fundraising and donations is given towards girls’ education in Senegal
(scholarships, girls camps, youth groups and other empowerment activities).
Thursday, December 13, 2012
Sunday, December 2, 2012
This Awkward Chapter In A Story Called Life
There
are things that everyone who lives abroad experiences; those awkward moments
that occur because of a lack of complete comprehension of our cultural
differences. The simplest form of this would be language. Sure you can study a
language in school or visit somewhere and read Survival French on the plane but
until you are truly fluent in a language awkward moments are a sure bet, and
honestly even then can never really be totally dismissed.
Being
a volunteer immersed in a culture where the interactions that I have with
people are 80% of the time in a language different than either of our firsts
there are bound to be moments that you walk away from saying, did I really just
say that? A perfect example would be the other morning I was at the bank with
Amadou, my wonderful work partner, and while leaving I said to the security
guard “nous sommes fini,” which translates to "we are finished." I thought I was
joking with him because we were at the bank all morning and I wanted to
emphasize that me and my work partner were finally done with everything there
so we were leaving. Though I said “we are finished” in the context it was
interpreted as though "I am done being friends with you;" I should have said
“nous avons fini.” On top of all of this he is related to my family in some
long complicated way so adding to the awkwardness of telling the security guard
at the bank that I see on a weekly basis that I no longer want to be friends
with him, I get to see him when he visits my house. Don’t worry Amadou informed
me of what I said after we left the bank and it was too late to correct my
misspoken words and misinterpretation of the French language. Amadou just
laughed but I continued on our walk home with a lack of excitement for the next
time I see this security guard that is probably questioning what he did wrong.
Another
perfect example; I was on my run the other morning and there was a donkey cart
carrying fencing with a boy standing next to the donkey adjusting his harness. As
I was approaching, I was preparing to pass the donkey cart on the right and
thought nothing of it; cars pass these carts all the time. The cart started to
move and, what looked like the boy getting ready to take off again, he started
yelling something at me. With my headphones in I couldn’t quite hear what he was
saying. Once the donkey started moving a bit quicker with the boy appearing to
chase him and waving at me to go to the other side of the street I put two and
two together; the donkey thought I was chasing it and with cart still connected
started to run from what he thought was a threat. Just before passing the boy
and cart I quick jumped to the other side of the road apologizing while
continuing on my way. I let out a little laugh and shrugged my shoulders and
the boy smiled. Who would have thought that’s its ok for cars that are ten
times my size and weight to pass these animals without a problem should you
come up to one on a run you should cross to the other side of the road out of
respect.
My
last example I wanted to share because it was an awkward moment that I actually
benefited from. I went to the corner shop to buy laundry soap when I suddenly
got a hankering for a bag of Crax Chips; comparable to Cheetos but not nearly
as cheesy. Apparently Crax makes both a cheese and a sugary flavor of these
puffs so I asked for the cheese kind. I shared a look of confusion with the
boutique owner, who doesn’t speak much French, but didn’t think much of it. I
paid him before I received my goods so when he turned around with my items I
could no nothing other than accept the misunderstanding and continue on my way.
What was this miscommunication you ask? I got my bag of puffs, which was the
sweet kind that I hate, and a slice of Laughing Cow cheese that, unknown to
man, never needs to be refrigerated. I secretly love Laughing Cow triangles but
never buy them because I am not even sure that they made of. I gave the puffs
to the kids and ate the cheese.
While
in the moment it’s hard to think how these awkward situations are going to benefit
me in the future but I know they will. Everything that I am doing in my life
here is preparing me to live and appreciate life back home. I can’t imagine
using these tricks very often but when the time comes to dismiss a relationship
or dodge animals in the road I will be a pro.
Labels:
Peace Corps - Senegal
Sunday, November 25, 2012
The Story About Dakar and Thanksgiving
I
have been staying at the Dakar Regional House for the last week and it’s been
both exciting and exhausting. Each region, the equivalent to states or counties
I suppose, has a house or apartment that is served as a sanctuary for
volunteers. These houses are managed and ran by volunteers. Since we are in a
prominently Muslim country these houses act as sort of a refuge for allowing us
to be American and not judged by the locals for our actions. With all of this
being said though it leads to some memorable gatherings that, if you are not in
the mood, can ruin a good nights sleep; it’s like freshman year in college all
over again.
| Our outfits from the closet! |
| Some volunteers at the Ambassadors house for Thanksgiving |
About
a year ago I was hustling through a crowd at the Mall of America’s Best Buy
trying to find an external hard drive at a mega discounted price and this year
I will be sleeping in, eating a bean sandwich for breakfast and taking my $4
cab ride to the Artisanal Fair. This fair or expo, whatever you want to call
it, is a chance for a group of artists that work with volunteers to showcase
their products and sell them to the expat market. All the products are hand
made in Senegal and offer a higher quality than the normal touristy products
you find. Some of the artists that they work with ship their goods overseas and
even a few are featured in stores like Pier One. Woven baskets, paintings,
jewelry, wooden statues, and tapestries are a few of the things that you can
expect to find. One little trick that the volunteers are teaching the artists
is pricing, in a simpler form of course. They teach them that even though
everyone sells a certain basket for a certain price does not mean your basket
has to be the same price. Maybe you use better quality products to make your
basket or it has features that you can’t find anywhere else? Your basket should
cost more. It’s amazing how we take even the little things for granted such as
knowledge. It takes some time to get used to not assuming that the things that I
learned in high school are not common knowledge.
It
is just about time to go back to site and I am both excited and dreading it. I
love hanging out with volunteers, watching movies and making fancy dinners but
I have to remember that that is not why I am here. At this point I am just
waiting for mandat (our monthly living stipend that includes money for food,
housing, transportation and walk-around) to get deposited into my account so
that I can get back to site. We usually get “paid” around the 23rd
of each month and it’s the 25th and I don’t have a penny to my name.
So in summary I am stuck in Dakar until I get paid so that I have enough money
to buy my bus/car ticket back to site. Boo.
Between
IST and Thanksgiving I have spent the last three weeks with my fellow
volunteers and it has been a great time. Dakar and Thies are so different than
the Senegal that I know and live in it’s a good escape. They have malls here,
fancy hotels, pet stores, grocery stores with actual carts and air
conditioning. It’s like a different world, but the world that I am used to and
love. Someday America we will be reunited but until then, peace.
Labels:
Peace Corps - Senegal
Tuesday, November 13, 2012
An Election and IST
Elections
snuck up on me this year, per usual, but I did remember to send in my absentee
ballot a few months ago. I was studying abroad just before the last election
and was confronted with the same scenarios this time around in Senegal as I was
in France.
People are more informed about American politics than I would have
assumed but the information that they have is either reverberated back,
not actually understood on a conceptual level, or only a part of the picture. A
majority of the people that I spoke with about the elections, with the
conversation always being brought up on their end, seem to favor Obama but
there are the few, like my host brother, who were all about Romney. Either
way my election night was spent at the Tambacounda Regional House since I had
to be in Thies the following day for IST (In Service Training); I live a good
ten hours away from Thies so I thought it would be wise to get a head start.
The polls were still open in the west coast when I went to bed but I woke up
with Obama being favored to be re-elected, yay! Now I have to insert a line or
two as to why I voted for Obama to prove that I voted for him for other reasons
than the color of his skin or good looks; 1) his position on gay marriage 2)
his position on abortion 3) his support for a national healthcare system and 4) I think that four years is not long enough to
be productive. That being said we will see what we can do in the next four
years; I say we because he does not pass or reject laws, he works with a large
number of politicians all starting at the local level. 
Diane,
Anthony, and I left for the garage at 6am to meet up with Jenn, the usual crew
because we are all coming from about as far south as you can get and
transportation is never fun, let alone by yourself. This trip was going to be a
little bit different than the usual trip up north; we were also transporting a
puppy! I thought this was a great thing while the other travelers were not so
enthusiastic. We were not able to leave the garage right away upon our arrival
because there was still 3 spaces left in the car in front of us that was
Thies-bound and we needed three more people to fill our car. Instead of using
common sense and combining the cars we were forced to wait until the first car
filled up and then ours to leave. We were more than a little impatient after
waiting for about three hours and not moving so we bought the three remaining
seats with the hope to pick up people along the way. We were off. The car ride
was pretty smooth since we were all able to stretch out a little bit since the
car was only about half full. Puppy, still nameless, slept for the first hour
of the 7 hour trip; its hard keeping a puppy confined to a small box while on a
road trip, he was restless to say the least. Since nobody wanted to take
responsibility for this dog, Jenn found it outside and another volunteer up
north said she would take it; I took on the responsibility of ensuring that he
was properly taken care of during our road trip. Senegalese almost never
consider animals as pets, they see it as wasting valuable resources and time on
something that could go towards a human life and with this being said our
driver was very confused why I was treating this dog better than some people
treat their kids. He would pee in his dirt lined box that was acting as more of
a litter box than a bed, we would take him on small walks during our pit stops
and when he was getting REALLY restless I would feed him more milk in hopes
that he would go into a food coma. We were unable to find locals along the way
so we picked up the three other volunteers that lived off the main road along
our trip. Our trip started out with four Americans and a dog and ended with the
car full of us Peace Corps volunteers, with our dog, our driver was having a
great time I am sure. As much fun as I had with our new little friend 8 hours
or so was plenty of time to spend with him on my lap in a box, I was excited to
get back to the training center.
We
are back at the training center for IST; I am beginning to feel like I never
left. During this ten-day period we have sessions such as Grant Writing,
Reporting Statistics to the Peace Corps, Focus Groups (in each of our areas
such as Waste Management), and Monitoring and Evaluation. All of these sessions
should help us once we get back to site be more effective with our projects. There
are so many things that I am learning here and its making me excited and
nervous about my project at the same time. There are things we are doing right
(having a motivational team, proper bookkeeping attempts, connections with the
right people in the community) and things that we could use some guidance on
(we are charging half of what we should, we don’t have enough workers, we need
a sorting site) with one thing getting in the way; funding. There are so many
International NGO’s (non-government organizations) that come to underdeveloped
countries and just dump money thinking they are helping solve a problem of lack
of money when in reality one of the main problems besides money is a lack of
knowledge and dumping money does not create sustainability for these countries
to be able to survive once the rich people go back home. I am torn on all the
small details right now that can either make or break our business and after
consulting with some volunteers who are working with similar projects I think I
have figured out that I need to not be afraid to fail and while using my
learned skills and background experiences I should just go with what I think is
right. We are only charging 550CFA a month for our services when other towns
nearby are charging 1000CFA. Our customers buy our trashcans while other
villages rent them out to have collateral in case households don’t pay. We have
one small cart with walls while others have found success in stacking the waste
in rice sacks on flatbed type carts. I have one full time employee now (the
other quite to work in his field) while others find it easier to work with two
part time employees in case time off is ever needed. These are just some of the
things that are stumping me at the moment that I need some advice on if anyone
wants to put in their two cents.
Thanksgiving
is coming up and since I was already 9/10ths of the way to Dakar I am heading
to the big city for the holiday. The Ambassador has a party for Americans in
Senegal each year, which I hear is a smashing time. Everyone gets dressed up,
drinks fancy American drinks that you could only dream of at site and eats
little appetizers that I can’t even imagine what they would be right now
because it seems like forever ago that I had real food! Usually only volunteers
belonging to the Region of Dakar are invited to the party but since I am
already pretty much in Dakar I requested to get on the list and we will cross
our fingers that when I show up they let me in.
So
in summary life right now is pretty good. Classes can get long and seemingly
tedious sometimes but I am eating a lot better than at site, I get to play with
a puppy all day and I am reunited with all my friends. It’s just like PST all
over again; movie nights, happy hours at Church (the name for the bar and since
Muslims don’t drink they name the bar after our place of worship) and long
walks on the beach. Ok I made that last part up there is no beach.
Labels:
Peace Corps - Senegal
Saturday, October 27, 2012
A Party and a Funeral
The most prevalent holiday of the year; sheep are
sacrificed, the finest cloths are worn, and the day is passed by eating and
lying around, the usual I suppose. When asked what this holiday represented,
what exactly was being celebrated, I was faced with responses of “it’s the
holiday of Tabaski”. I had figured out that much on my own but was left with
googling the actual meaning of the holiday.
With a quick search on my favorite
website, which just so happens to also be my future employer, a girl can dream
can’t she, I found out that Tabaski is “the celebration of willingness of
Abraham to sacrifice his son Ishmael as an act of obedience to God, before God
intervened to provide him with a sheep to sacrifice instead.”
The festivities began the night before the actual holiday
when I went with Mari, her sister-in-law and a handful of kids to the market to
buy some last minute items for the big party; shoes, vegetables, perfume and
holiday attire to list a few. Upon arriving at the market I was thoroughly
surprised just by how much the market quickly turned from women casually
strolling to buy supplies to buy lunch to a every man for himself free for all,
apparently all of Velingara. Roaming the dirt roads were the usual last minute
shoppers, vendors with various marked up goods, women manning food tables to
feed all the vultures, and kids looking to most likely start trouble. I kept a
pretty low profile and shuffled from merchant to trader behind Mari and co.
hoping to get as little toubob, loosely translated as westener or white person,
remarks as possible. The highlight of my evening, besides the obvious of
carrying children or shopping bags, was eating my bean and pea sandwich. They
are amazing and after seeing it in writing and how unappealing it sounds you
are just going to have to take my word for it. They are bomb. We returned home just after ten just in time
for my overdue bedtime.
| Nene grilling the liver... yum |
I awoke the next morning excited for the day. My first
Tabiski, so many unknowns and firsts were going to happen today, this is what
drives me. I just think about some of the not so glamorous jobs that I had in
the states to get me to where I am today, living abroad, experiencing new
cultures first hand and here it was. I quickly shuffled to the same park where
the Korité service was held, my family apparently either forgot me or thought
that I wasn’t coming. Being the only white person at the park, and showing up
after service started, my family was easily able to spot me and grab me before
I started wondering aimlessly for too long. I took a couple of pictures of
friends and neighbors and realized just how comforting it was sitting next all
these familiar faces; it felt like home almost. Amadou, the work partner,
quickly sent over someone to steal my camera so that he could take pictures of
all the action up front where women were not allowed to sit. Come to find out
later the “action” was slitting the neck of a sheep; I could have probably done
without documenting that. Service, I use this word loosely to describe prayer
and preaching on behalf of a couple of the religious leaders in the community,
was quick and painless and we were off before I knew it. Our walk back was
rerouted to the long way home stopping at houses of family members and close
friends to say hi, wish them a happy holiday, and about any other small talk
that you could imagine.
After arriving home I went over to Amadou’s house to grab
my camera and was just in time for him to slaughter two of his sheep
(representing the sheep that God gave to Abraham in place of his son). I knew
this was the holiday for sacrificing sheep, similar to Thanksgiving and turkeys,
but come on. I miss the good old days in America where my mom would go to the
grocery store, pick out a big frozen already dead turkey and bring it home to
cook all while someone else did the dirty work of cleaning and preparing it for
cooking. I quickly ran past him and the other “men” of the house to his wives
so I didn’t have to watch the slaughter first hand. But don’t worry I did not
have a chance to take my camera back form him yet so someone documented the
whole thing. I sat a little with the ladies, asked them how their holiday was,
told them that I was going to cook today which they found hysterical and made
other small talk. I was going to return home shortly after retrieving my camera
but of course they would not let me leave without eating something or looking
at my outfit, which was the same one they gave me for Korité.
I returned home just in time to take off my smothering hot
outfit and watch Nene, mom, grill the liver of our long lost pet. All of his
other parts were sitting in a bucket waiting to be either grilled or thrown in
a stew of sorts. I say “all” of his other parts literally because there were
organs mixed with legs mixed with other mystery chunks. I gave the liver a try,
in part to be nice and to say that I have tried sheep liver, and it was just as
gross as I though it would be. Partially grainy in texture, kind of chewy, not
really sure but I quickly passed up seconds once they were offered to me.
I spent the remainder of the late morning cutting onions.
I signed up for this job for two reasons; it would give me something to do for
a good hour or so since there were probably thirty or so and I finally have
mastered cutting an onion in my hand without a cutting board and I wanted to
show off my skills. Our holiday meal was good, served as a stew accompanied
with bread. The whole time while eating it I stayed clear from the meat in part
of because I still wasn’t sold on meat and also if I were going to eat meat I
wanted to be sure of what I was eating and with this meal it would be an
unknown.
The remainder of the day was devoted to digesting all of
the food that was consumed, a requirement for any good holiday, and parading
wives and children around town to visit family members and friends. I stayed
home with Nene. This holiday also marked a very hard time for me, the day my
grandfather passed. My dad’s dad had been battling cancer, and just about
anything else one can get while sick it seemed, for a while now and he reached
a point where he was either unable or unwilling to fight anymore. As hard as it
is to admit I don’t blame him, towards the end he was not the grandpa that I
remember and he was not living a life that he used to once enjoy. I miss him
already and wish I was there with my family to rejoice the good life that he
had, even though it was too short; there were still things that I wanted to do
in this life and that I both wanted and needed him around for. I miss him and
Janice coming to my parent’s house in Wisconsin for dinners and a round of either
cards or dominos, which he always won somehow. I miss going to his house and
listening to him talk about the birds, he knew everything about them and the
wildlife around his house. I miss the passion that he had in his hobbies, be it
his train set, gardening, wood work, quilting or any other random project that
Janice had him working on that he pretended not to enjoy, meanwhile we all knew
better. I miss his love for baking and how great his pies tasted. I miss how
caring he was be it helping my dad build a mansion for all my pet mice in
Hawaii or all the times on the phone he would tell me that he felt great even
though I heard otherwise. I miss him. The day started out a holiday and ended
as a day of remembrance. We lost a great man yesterday and I will forever miss
him. Being away from family I am realizing just how lucky I am and how little
time we have here. I am not sure where people go after they die but I am sure
that we need to appreciate everyone in our lives.
I retired to my room early that night, not really feeling
like celebrating at the hotel where a live band and unlimited sodas were
awaiting me. I ended the night falling asleep under my mosquito to a few good
episodes of Sex and the City, which reminded me just got great good girlfriends
are, and Community, which provided a good laugh.
Alexx is coming to visit me tomorrow for a few days before
we go to celebrate Halloween at a Peace Corps party in a neighboring town. Her
arrival is coming just in time because I could really use a good friend around
right now and she comes with promises of long cries and bottomless drinks, if I
want. A stiff drink sounds good right about now. Cheers.
PS I promised my girls Erica Schumacher and Sarah
Gunderson a shout out. Thanks for both reading my blogs and being there for me.
Love you guys.
Labels:
Peace Corps - Senegal
Thursday, October 25, 2012
My Arranged Marriage
I am not sure if this is weird but I sort of feel like I
have entered into an arranged marriage. Now I have never been married so I am
not going to claim to be an expert but I think that the relationship that I
have naturally formed with someone would be what I would expect an arranged
marriage to be like; my counterpart, Amadou.
| Amadou and I |
While on the topic of men in this country I am learning to
appreciate being born in the US. As a woman in the global community it has
become more real just how unfair life is for many women. You see articles on
the news or hear jokes about how men are more superior but being raised by a
very strong woman I never really saw just how insignificant my gender gets
treated. I was always taught that my twin brother (shout out Eddy Spaghetti) and
I could be whatever we wanted to be when we grew up and it didn’t matter that I
was a girl or he a boy. I grew up seeing one side of the story, the one where
women and men are equal; mom and dad taking turns working, cooking meals, going
to school/taking classes, showing up to sporting events. But now, after living
in Senegal for a very short period of time, I am seeing the other side. The
side that I hope won’t last forever and my children will never see. My host
brother’s wife for example; born from a father working in politics on a
national level and marrying a teacher but never had the chance to finish middle
school. I hold out for hope for other women but if someone who was dealt those
cards can’t get minimum education in this country, who can? Instead, after my
brothers wife meet a potential husband, her teacher may I add, she was expected
to drop out of school and start a family. Being a year older than she is right
now I could not imagine my life raising three young children while doing all
the housework. No way. Again how lucky I am to be born in a country with
women’s rights and parents who expected more of me than to be a housewife.
To wrap up my random thoughts I can see why so many
projects focus on working with women’s groups here in Senegal. They need all
the encouragement and tools for success they can get. While my stint as a bank
teller woo’ing, budget keeping wife will be short lived I will forever be
grateful for just how important and appreciated women are back in the mother
country. Girl power.
Labels:
Peace Corps - Senegal
Thursday, October 18, 2012
Projects and Podcasts
| Random picture of my new roommate |
I was in Dakar a couple of weeks ago to both celebrate
with my training class, or stage, the end of our first five weeks at site and
meet with the International School of Dakar. Alexx, one of my closest friends
in my stage, just so happens to be a Eco-Tourism volunteer resulting in her
being forced to live on a beach and people wanting to visit her and her site
for both educational and leisure activities. Rough life. The school’s ninth
grade science class has spent a week in January at her site, Palmarin, the last
two years as an educational get away from the city. Alexx is in charge with
planning their trip, including but not limited to meals, lodging, activities
and transportation. Trevon and I will be assisting with the project this year
and since we live too far away to be a real part of the planning, and Alexx can
handle it on her own, we will serve as chaperones for the field trip. We are
pretty excited and lucky that one of our best friends lives in a beautiful
touristy area. Great pictures to follow.
Work at site has been going really well lately that I
almost have an urge to want to expand too fast too soon. I am glad I realize
that now versus later after potentially ruining the project. In short, our
donkey cart needed some welding done on it since it’s getting a lot of wear. Problem
fixed but my counterpart Amadou, being the go- getter that he is, wants to
start searching for something bigger and more durable; this actually comes at a
great time since we just expanded into the next neighborhood and now have more
houses than before. It would only make sense to have a larger more stable mode
of transporting the waste. Since jumping from small donkey cart to dump truck
is a little unrealistic we are settling for a large donkey cart and another
donkey. Now the only trick is to going to be finding funding to buy this new
and improved cart and extra donkey. This is where international NGO’s with
local offices come in handy. Once I get back from IST (In Service Training)
Amadou and I are going to search for an organization where we would qualify for
funding and I will attempt to woo them with my grant writing skills. Who would
have thought taking a class in college called Grant Writing would come in
handy?
My new obsession: podcasts. What are these you may ask?
They are usually FREE audio episodes on iTunes of your favorite shows, be it on
tv or radio. Some of the ones that I can’t stop downloading are The Current
(Minneapolis radio station) Song of the Day, which is great because you get a
free song each day of an artist they are showcasing. Ian and Margery on myTalk
107.1 and Lori and Julia on myTalk 107.1 who are talk show hosts of the morning
show and the afternoon show for all your celebrity and gossip news. TEDTalks,
which is a nonprofit dedicated to sharing conferences and lectures with an
educational theme. And probably my new favorite Stuff You Should Know, which
has shows that describe just about anything from How the Electoral College
Works to How Beer Works. Now right now my obsession is more on the side of
downloading these podcasts more than listening to them, but I am working on
that. I like to listen to them while in some sort of public transportation
since I entirely way too ADD to sit in a chair and listen to audio without
doing something. I will keep you posted once I have actually figured out the Electoral
College but until then I will leave you on a note from a podcast that I have
listened to recently; Pizza was actually invented in Naples, Italy, it was
originally a street food bought only by peasants because it was cheap, and NY’s
Thin Crust Pizza has won repeatedly in blind experiments competing with Chicago
Deep Dish Pizza. Ciao.
Labels:
Peace Corps - Senegal
Thursday, October 4, 2012
The Story About The 5-Week Challenge Party
The best part about being here to date is looking back at
the days that I have and thinking that I live in some sort of a dream world.
Sure I may seem scared at times (drug sniffing machete holding Koncurants
walking around), lonely at times (seeing on facebook that my little world in
Minneapolis did not stop when I left and people did actually still go on with
their lives) and even a little darn right skeptical of the unknown referred to
as my future (Am I actually making a difference? What the heck am I going to do
when I am done? You mean people don’t get to just travel around for the rest of
their lives all expenses paid?) but its all these moments put together that
makes up the adventure.
My time here as already made me loose a little of the
A-type personality that I used to carry around, though I must say it was
something that I sort of prided myself on; with every minute of my day planned
my life feels more organized and accomplished, I like being fully immersed in
something, be it with work or school. Though I think that’s its good that I
chilled a little bit I still hope that I will be able to spring right back to
my normal American self once I am back in the states after service, that is IF
I end up in the states after service. After thinking about it why should I ever
get a “real” job with a “real” salary? Maybe I will do the Peace Corps again?
Just kidding Dad, that one was for you.
Last week I came back from my trip to our regional Capital
of Kolda for our 5-week challenge party that our region threw for us,
celebrating being at site as volunteers for five weeks. I was planning on going
for a couple days, to make the three hour car ride each way worth it, which I
should add is entirely on a pothole mess of a road, but after much
consideration one night was plenty away from site.
I got to the garage just after 10am Saturday morning to
find that I was the fifth person of seven to fill the car, meaning I had some
time to kill. I decided to quick run to the bank, which is conveniently located
next to the bakery making the bank that much more fun, and the driver of the
car took my number in case for the first time in Senegalese history something
happened in a timely matter and they would be ready to leave before I got back.
Needless to say I went to the bank, bought croissants, returned to the garage,
drank a cup of coffee and still had time to spare before we were actually ready
to leave. My bladder, for anyone that knows anything about me, is pretty much
nonexistent so I was sure to go to the bathroom just like mom and dad taught me
before getting in the car; it always makes for a more enjoyable road trip when
you are not constantly thinking about how bad you have to pee. A majority of my
time spent on the way to Kolda was dedicated to listening to MyTalk 107.1
podcasts of their morning show with Ian and Margery and the afternoon show with
Lori and Julia. Easily my favorite radio station in Minneapolis and it just so
happens it is talk radio, entertaining to say the least, and available for free
in iTunes. I like to listen to my iPod for two reasons; one being that public
transportation is seemingly more terrifying outside the US and its better just
to not know what’s going on and two being that I feel like I sort of know
what’s going on back home by listening to talk shows and other media outlets.
While trying not to pay attention to how fast we were driving considering we
were in a high pedestrian traffic area I could not help but notice the dog in
the middle of the road and our driver forgetting how to brake. We hit it. Bad.
At first I was hopeful, well naive I guess, that he just ducked under the car
and was fine but after looking back the dog was clearly badly injured and I am
not sure he even survived. It broke my heart. Animals in general are not treated
as a member of society in most of the world, especially Africa, and considering
that list scavenges dogs are ranked near the bottom. We did not even stop. Diane
texted me shortly before I arrived, doubting that I was still coming
considering it was already past 3pm, but I assured her that I was in fact
almost there and that my now murderer of a car driver had no sense of getting
the customer to their final destination in a timely fashion; its typical for
the driver, and even passengers, to have the car stop along the way to do
personal errands. Upon arriving in Kolda I grabbed a cab and headed to
the Maison Blanc (white house) also known as Maison Corps de la Paix.
The theme for the 5-week challenge party was Kolda Olympics. I
am not sure exactly what this was going to mean but it involved a series of
games where everyone was split into two competing teams, and while we are being
honest they are all drinking games. Whitney and another volunteer went to the
bar for a drink as I was arriving before going to the “liquor store” to get beer
for our festivities. To jump ahead to the end of the story for a minute, we
didn’t end up seeing them until much later that night after everyone was too
drunk to play any Olympic games, the bar got the best of them. While waiting
for them to return the rest of us responsible volunteers decided to start a
well deserved Power Hour, if you don’t know what that is I am not sure that I
want to be the one to break the news on just how irresponsible my generation
is. Ok well it’s when you take a shot of beer on the minute, each minute, for
an hour straight – this is what they say anyway I wouldn’t know. Alex
conveniently had an app on his phone that made his playlist change songs every
hour with a little chime of “SHOTS SHOTS SHOTS” each minute to know when you
have to drink. As great as the app seemed to be after a while we started to
wonder how long we had left so we got up to check the time on his phone. Well
since we are still in the honesty circle we got up because we drank all the
beer and were curious to see how far into the hour we made it before we were
all forced to quit, 77 minutes. For those of you who can’t count yes that is
more than an hour and as cool as this app seemed it subconsciously encouraged
us to drink for longer than the intended hour since there is no warning to end
the hour. Needless to say we were all really impressed with our skills
considering the hour is usually hard enough to accomplish. The end of a power hour and no more
beer led to some dancing and some partaking in conversations entirely too
serious for our state of minds. Typical. Hours later Whitney shows up without
beer. This was probably the best thing that could have happened since we didn’t
need to be drinking anymore anyway. So this is why I am still a little unsure
about what exactly Kolda Olympics intended to be.
As I was trying to go to bed mosquitoes were maliciously
attacking me, which always puts a damper on your slumbers; second worst night
of sleep to date in country, just behind the incident that I wrote about last
week involving milk. The next morning Diane and I went to go get breakfast, the
usual egg omelet baguette sandwich, and then wasted the rest of the afternoon
on the internet doing who knows what. Diane was heading back to site after
lunch and I thought that it would be wise considering the mess I was in the
night before, and my lack of sleep, that I go back as well. Of course one car
ride from Kolda to Velingara couldn’t be that difficult, right?
We got to the Kolda garage around 2:30pm, thinking that there
would be no cars between 12:30pm and 2pm because of lunch. We are seat numbers
two and three, that is both a good and a bad thing. Good because we don’t have
to be squished in the back since these are seats belonging to the middle row
but bad because we need to wait for the rest of the car to fill up and who
knows how long we could sit there waiting for four more people to want to go to
Velingara. Well about two hours is how long you wait for four people in a city
of 80,000 to want to go to Velingara. Of course I get stuck in the middle seat
which I am beginning to think Diane strategically places herself near the car
where I have to get in first and somehow always end up squished between her and
someone usually too big to fit in the spot next to me. Its ok I believe in
karma and I will take my middle seat. Just before getting pushed off,
apparently if a car doesn’t start the momentum of the car being pushed while
turning the key is just what it takes to start, I notice that we are in the
same car and have the same driver as my trip down to Kolda. As nice as it was
seeing a familiar face I warned Diane and we started our trek home a little
more hesitant than previously. Our seven seat car, not including the driver,
was holding ten with kids being thrown on laps like used bags. One thing that I
love about how friendly people are here with each other is demonstrated with
how perfect strangers with offer to take kids off mothers laps who are either in
a squished seat or are already hosting one kid on their lap.
Of course about an hour into the trip it started to rain, which
means windows as much as you like them up when it rains go down a little bit in
order to control the fog on the windshield. Yes there are defrost controls on
all these cars but it is something that miraculously nobody knows about or
uses; wiping the fog off with your hand/shirt is common practice while driving.
The fog mixed with all of the cracks on the windshield made it about impossible
to see. Our fearless driver carried on without caution and my iTunes got turned
up a little louder. About the same spot at the dog incident, a clearly high
traffic area that I thought we would learn a lesson from, we hit a goat. The
goat was dragging a little kid and when the goat ran into the road the little
kid let go of the rope and we collided with the goat, of course without
breaking. I am not sure if our habit of not breaking is in fear of causing a
larger accident or his reactions are not quick enough, I will bet the second.
Killing a dog is one thing but I am guessing that the little boy wished that he
got hit along with the goat right about now as his family is hearing from all
over the village that their meal for the next holiday is now splattered across
the road. Animals are expensive and if you do have them it is for one reason
and one reason only, to feed someone. You will end up eating it yourself or you
will sell it to someone else to eat but either way they are too expensive and
valuable to be getting hit by cars. Diane thinks the driver is bad luck, I
think its me considering this is the third animal that has lost a fight with a
car that I have been in since I have been at site. We pulled over, the driver
began venting to the man sitting next to me explaining how baffled he was that
people and animals have no respect for cars or roads and think of themselves as
invincible. I tend to agree with him just by noticing the amount of kids who
play in the road and the amount of parents and onlookers who say nothing.
A little while later we drove through Kouncane where Diane got
out to go home and we loaded up two more people to replace her little body; we
are now at a grand total of 11 people in a car made for seven. Everyone expect
for me and a man in the back seat has a kid sitting on their lap and since I am
still stuck in the middle I have about two half children on my lap. As the rain
continues my music plays in my ears and I try to get out of my mind the fact
that I have been in a car that has killed more animals in the last 24 hours
than I think I have in my whole life.
Three and a half hours later we finally reach Velingara. It is
still raining out so I am forced to sit at the garage until the rain stops
enough for me to run home. The streets are now rivers and what used to be dirt
path sidewalks are now slippery banks. The door to my house was already
securely shut with a rock, good ol’ African security, so I quickly moved it and
slipped into my courtyard to my mom asking me what I was doing in the rain.
Just the question I was asking myself. With a quick conversation with my broken
Pulaar explaining all the massacres I witnessed during my trip I retreated to
my room for an early night in to fall asleep to what made my trip home
memorable, the rain.
Labels:
Peace Corps - Senegal
Friday, September 21, 2012
Its The Simple Things: Waterfalls and Teddy Grahams
I just spent six nights in Kedagou, another region here in
Southern Senegal, for a language seminar. About a month after install everyone
meets up with a few people from their class, who also learned the same language
during training, to answer any questions that may have come up regarding
language during our first stint at site; many volunteers find it to be more of
a review.
Since language seminar is more relaxed than actual PST we
had plenty of free time. Something that volunteers tend to do a lot in their
free time, especially while at regional houses where there is the luxury of a
stove and oven, is cook. We made a good combo of foods from all around the world.
One of the foods that I made, and was very proud of, was boiled peanuts.
Considering my cooking abilities I was surprisingly shocked on how they turned
out. Peanuts are in season here, and like all foods that are in season, you
tend to feel like you are overdosing. Since I couldn’t think about eating any
more roasted peanuts, looking for another texture, I remembered my mom boiling
peanuts as sort of a treat. They tasted just as good as I remember.
We were reassured that there would be a car waiting in the
village; they leave regularly from this spot considering it is mildly touristy.
I am not sure why I believed a small village 25k off a main road would have
cars that leave regularly but needless to say, it didn’t. Diane and Anthony
said they would bike back to Kedagou if it was the only option while I said
that I would be willing to try ANY other option, ie sleeping at Kyle’s until the
morning when there is a car. By a stroke of luck another local NGO, AfriCare,
would be riding through Kyle’s village a couple hours later and going straight
to Kedagou. We took the ride. Four grown adults in the back of a pickup; air conditioning
blasting (almost too cold but I was not about to complain), smelling like we
have been biking and hiking all day while our heads are filled with a hint of motion
sickness from dodging potholes, but we made it just as it was beginning to get dark.
Once we were home, showered, and fed, I can honestly look back on the day and
say it was great.
I am not sure if I developed sensitivity to dairy or had a
stint of bad luck but I believe the strawberry milk that I indulged in the
following night was trying to end my life. I was tired from the day before, and
looking forward to continue my book by Bill Clinton called Giving, so I went to bed early after drinking strawberry milk, made
of whole milk, with dinner. Upon falling asleep I was awaken a couple of hours
later with stomach pains worse than I have ever had in my life. The stomach
pains were accompanied by bowel movements, no details needed, and this went on all night. There was no
sleeping, just laying, staring at the ceiling trying to convince myself to fall
asleep. I would get up to grab water, though I didn’t want to drink much
because it would just make me have to go to the bathroom even more than I
already had to. While getting water the smell of the kitchen would make me
nauseous so I would lie down in the hammocks, then I would get cold and move
inside, to then be interrupted into going to the bathroom again. This rotation
happened about four times in the night resulting in about three hours of sleep.
The five-hour car ride back home, not including waiting time for public
transportation that ended up totaling eight hours, seemed longer than it
already was. I am only sticking with fake dairy from now on, if any.
Diane and I caught a ride with a Peace Corps car to
Tambacounda, which not only saved us about 3000CFA each but also eliminated
having to squish in a septplace, listening to locals screaming in foreign
languages, and the occasional smack on the head as a result of fans being
waved. We were dropped off at the garage, what the public transportation depot
is known as, and waited over two hours four our septplace to Velingara to sell
all seven tickets. We passed the time with some quality people watching,
drinking over sweetened juice slushy’s, eating omelet and baguette sandwiches
and watching men sell car tickets as they make tea and clearly worry free that
our car is going nowhere fast.
Finally reaching Velingara, after the longest 24 hours of my
life, Diane told me it was not necessary to wait for her bus that takes her to
her village; I was glad she told me to go home. I usually wait at the garage to
make sure that 1-there is a bus for her 2-she gets on it and 3- it actually
leaves town, since there is not much I can do once it leaves town, but today I
could barley keep my eyes open after the night I had and the prolonged day of
waiting for public transportation. I ran home, put on a smile for my family
since I didn’t want to explain why I was so tired, took a bath and called it a
night. Sure it was only 5pm but I blamed it on my long trip from Kedagou and I
went straight to bed. I woke up for a couple hour rally at 1am to watch Its Complicated (good movie by the way),
not feeling the best but better, and didn’t wake up again until 9:30am. The
sleep and water was all I needed to feel back to normal. Alhamdillilah.
It had been a while since mom and dad said they sent their
package so I decided once I woke up from my coma that I would rush to the Post
Office. Sure enough there was a package for a Kelly Blodge, I just assumed that
it was for me. I paid the 1000CFA to get it, a customs fee, and the postal
worker smashed it into my bag as an attempt to help, and we will find out if
anything valuable was in it I guess. Once I got home I went into my room, shut
the curtain, and began to open the package from my parents in private, not
wanting my family to see that I got something. There is no real reason not to
show them other than the kids would want everything in it and my brother would
be convinced that I am even more rich than he already thinks Americans are.
Velveeta Cheese and Life Savers don’t make one rich but to an African it’s all
the same, goods from America. I am not quite sure how my parents did it, not
sure if I should credit mom or dad or both, but they sure did hit the nail on
the head with this one; Teddy Grahams, Velveeta Cheese,
Granola Bars, Furikaki Seasoning, Soy Sauce, Dried Mushrooms and Strawberries,
Drink Mixes, Instant Potatoes, Trail Mix, Sprinkle Butter, Soup and Pesto
Packets, Life Savers, Gum (naturally sweetened with 100% Xylitol for positive
oral health benefits - thanks mom) and Werther's Candy. I did end up giving the
box to Nene who was shocked that I was going to throw it in the trash for biodegradable
items; I thought I was recycling but she took it a step further and made
everyone in the family a fan. I have no idea how I am going to ration all of
these items or what I am going to eat first, obviously Teddy Grahams were
opened immediately, but what next? To make this day even better they also emailed
me a code for an iTunes gift card, GREAT GIFT. I didn’t realize how much the
gift card was for until I redeemed it and, again, I am not sure how I am going
to ration my music purchases or what I am going to buy. Maybe a few workout
tracks, some good ol’ classics, maybe something local? Time will tell.
Considering how, well negative, my last post was and to the
couple of people who actually read it and expressed concern about how I was
doing, I hope this post answers that. I had a great week, besides the milk
situation, and now have plenty of things, between the music credit and package,
to remind me of home for those hard times. A little shout out to mom and dad,
you know who you are, you are the best. A strong support network back home is
key to having a successful experience abroad and you guys score an A+. If your
lucky when you come to visit I will cook you some noodles and Velveeta
accompanied with kool-aid. Yum.
Labels:
Peace Corps - Senegal
Tuesday, September 18, 2012
I’m Annoyed
I am writing this entry about a week before its posting
date, since I just posted today I usually like to wait a week or so between
posts. A topic came to mind today that I wanted to touch on. I’m annoyed.
Labels:
Peace Corps - Senegal
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